Tuesday, 17 July 2007
FUJIAN TEA CEREMONY
Origin
The first known treatise on the subject of Gongfu cha was first mentioned in Lu Yu's The Classic of Tea and has been popular since the Qing Dynasty. In Gong Fu Tea (literally meaning great skill tea) rather than focusing on symbolic hand gestures such as that of the Japanese tea ceremony, the taste of the tea is paramount. Although Gongfu cha brewing method does have uncompromising steps, it is important to note that the various Asian tea consuming cultures have added local styles and equipment adding to the richness of the Asian tea culture.
[edit]Chemistry and Physics behind Gongfu cha
Gongfu Chemistry and Physics can be broken down into 2 groups: Geology, and Temperature.
In essence, what is desired in Gongfu cha is a brew that tastes great and is satisfying to the soul. Tea Masters in China and other Asian tea cultures will study for years perfecting this method in order to do so. However, method alone will not determine whether a great cup of tea will be produced. It has been suggested that the chemistry and physics behind Gong fu cha is what makes this method far more superior than any other when brewing Chinese teas. Gongfu Chemistry and Physics can be broken down into 2 groups: Chemistry, and Temperature.
Chemistry Water
Water should be given careful consideration when conducting Gongfu Cha. Water which taste and/or smells bad will adversely affect the brew as tea is 99.99% water. However, distilled or extremely soft water should never be utilzed as they are absent of crucial minerals and so can result in a "flat" tasting liquor. For these reasons, most tea masters will use a good clean local source of spring water. If this natural spring water is not available, bottled spring water will suffice. Hard water should be avoided at all cost, even after it has been filtered.
Temperature
During the Gongfu cha process, the skilled master will first determine what is the appropriate temperature for the tea being used in order to extract the essential oil of tea.
an optimal temperature must be reached and maintained
195 degrees Fahrenheit/85 degrees Celsius for Oolong tea 200 degrees Fahrenheit/98 degrees Celsius for compressed tea such as Pu-erh tea
Tools/equipment/utensils
A small Yixing clay teapot, around 150 ml in volume (maximum) call a Cha hu (茶壺)
Three cups, each 30 ml, call cha bei (茶杯)
Fresh water. Tap water should be filtered, hard water should be avoided.
Kettle (clay or glass is preferable, in order to determine the temperature of the boiling water).
Stove or a hob to boil water
A pail or container to dispense water call a cha gang (茶缸)
A water dispensing tray or a bowl for tea pot during water pouring call a cha pan (茶盤)
Table
Seat for guests
A clean cotton cloth to wipe off any excess water on the table
There are several extra utensils required in the refined Taiwan style Gongfu tea ceremony:
A wooden tea spoon to measure the amount of tea leaves required call a cha chi (茶匙)
A tea pitcher (Taiwan style Gongfu Tea ceremony)
Tea strainer call a lou dou (漏斗)
An aroma pitcher (a Taiwan style Gongfu tea ceremony)
Tweezer call a giab (挾) in both Chaozhou and MinNan hua
Boiling water
The boiling water temperature depends on the type of tea used.
95 degrees Celsius for Oolong tea
boiling 100 degrees Celsius for compressed tea such as Pu-erh tea
The temperature of the water can be determined by timing the size and the sizzling sound of the air bubbles.
75 to 85 degrees Celsius. Known as "crab eyes," ~ 3 mm in diameter, with rapid and loud sizzling sounds.
90 to 95 degrees Celsius. Known as "Fish eyes," ~ 8 mm in diameter, less frequent sizzling sounds and the sizzling pitch lower.
Boiling, no air bubbles, no sizzling sounds.
The above rules cannot be applied in highlands as the water will boil at lower temperatures in higher altitudes.
Ceremony procedures
Surroundings
A suitable space must be provided. A table large enough to hold the tea-making utensils, the drip tray, and the water is the minimum necessary. Ideally the surroundings should be peaceful and conducive to relaxation and socialisation. Incense, flowers, and low, soft, traditional music will all add to the ambience, as will songbirds.
This culture of having Gongfu tea is so important to the Chaozhou people and they give a name to ceremony, namely Ain7goin1 Bhung7Huê3 閒間文化 [閒间文化]. This concept cannot be translated into Standard Chinese! It means having a relaxing and condusive environment for passing on one's culture. People of all ages will be in the vicinity of having this Gongfu cha ceremony, including young children. History, culture and tradition are then passed on to the children while drinking Gongfu cha [and in Chaozhou hua - we say eat gongfu cha] and having conversation. This art of conversation is so important and we have a special way of saying it, namely puêh uê 詖話 [诐话] .
Preparation
Lay the serving cups on the table. Warm and sterilize the cups with hot water. Pour away excess water.
Fill up the teapot with tea. For the 150 ml tea pot, you will need at least 15 grams of tea leaves.
Put the teapot into a water tray or a bowl.
Boil the water to preferable temperature as described above in the Boiling water section.
Fill up the teapot with water until it overflows.
Scoop away any bubbles or debris floating on top of the teapot and close the lid.
Pour and drain the water from the teapot as soon as possible into all the serving cups. (Taiwan style: fill up the pitcher as well)
Pour away the water from the cups. (You may use a wooden tweezer instead of bare hand)
Brewing
In Chinese it's called (高沖低斟 [高冲低斟]) gao1 chong1 di1 zhen1.
Fill up the teapot again with preferable boiling water until it covers the top. Close the teapot cover.
Pour hot water, or use the water from the serving cups from the preparation process, on the surface of the teapot.
Serving
In Chinese it's called (關公巡成 [关公巡成]) Guan1 gong1 xun2 cheng2
Wait for 20 to 50 seconds, depending on the type and quantity of the tea used.
Boiling water should be poured into the tea pot, until it is overflowing, and then the lid is used to remove the froth. Replace the lid on the pot and pour boiling water over the tea pot. This process is called in Chinese (刮沫淋蓋 [刮沫淋盖]) gua1 mo4 lin4 gai4.
Pour the tea in the serving cups in a circulating form evenly. (Taiwan style : Pour all the liquor into the pitcher before serving)
Serve the guests.
The second brewing is the most delicious tea. It should have a beautiful scent / aroma and has a wonderful bittersweet taste.
A quality oolong tea is good for anywhere from 4 to 8 brewings. Each subsequent pot follows the same procedure, but adds a slightly longer infusion time.
Taiwan style serving - Sometimes, a long slender cup will be used as the aroma cup. The tea is poured into this vessel and then poured into the shorter and wider drinking vessel. The drinker can then smell the aroma of the tea by bringing the aroma cup up to the nose and not risk spilling any tea on themselves. The tea is then drunk from the smaller, wider vessel.
Delicious last few drops
The few drops of tea from each pouring is very delicious indeed. It is therefore given a special name: (韓信點兵 [韩信点兵]) Han2 xin4 dian3 bing1. The last few drops should be shared equally between the three cups.
End of ceremony
Put the used tea leaves in a clean bowl for you guests to appreciate the tea you have used. They will smell the tea leaves and compliment you on your choice of excellent tea.
Clean up is an important step of the ritual
Brewed tea and tea leaves should not remain in the teapot after the ritual. It must be cleaned up thoroughly and rinsed with tea water.
Utensils must be sterilized with boiling water.
Tea pot should be rinsed with hot tea and the outside of the pot should be rubbed / polished with a good linen cloth. Never rinsed the pot with water. Allow the tea pot to dry naturally.
Let the utensils and serving cups air dry on a tea tray.
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